The full Glorious Return route from Pragnins to Balsiglia is 164 miles. Some of it requires going over suburban areas, walking on many roads. Some of it is quite remote, with little chance of lodging. I've crafted here a touristic version of the Glorious Return route that allows one to stay in Inns and mountain refuges, so heavy packs and tents aren't required. Yet it retains a lot of Alpine flavor in a series of relatively easy day-hikes.
The opening section from Pragnins to Megeve is relatively uninteresting, although from Yvoire to Col de Saxel, it's rather pastoral with some nice paths.
Concentrating on the Alpine sections, the starting point is Megeve. This can be reached by train to the station at Sallanches and from there by van or taxi. Megeve, being the center of a ski-resort area, has some great hotels and restaurants. The first day starts with a ride up the telepherique from Megeve to Rochebrune, and then a hike to the Col de Very (4.6 miles). From the Col de Very, it's 4.9 miles to the Refuge de la Roselette, which has bunk-style sleeping and a restaurant.
Day 1 - Megeve to Refuge de la Roselette. The route is indicated in red, click on the map to enlarge.
The telepherique from Megeve
Day 2 continues from the Refuge de la Roselette and bypasses the Col de la Fenetre (which can be scaled as an option). From there the trail ascends to the Col de la Croix de Bonhomme and then descends to a crossroads, les Chapieux. Overall this day is 8 miles.
The next stretch of the Glorious Return route is from les Chapieux through Seeze and then Val d'Isere. This is nearly 100% roads, and can be pretty busy. Although a route can be stitched together, my proposal is to jump to Val d'Isere. There are many van companies that shuttle people to the ski resort of Val d'Isere, and they're relatively under-utilized in the summer months, so it should be straightforward to hire a van to drive to Val d'Isere and then stay overnight in a ski lodge there.
Day 2 - Refuge de la Roselette over the Col de la Croix du Bonhomme to les Chapieux. Click on the map to enlarge
Col de la Croix du Bonhomme.
Day 3 is a hike over the Col de L'Iseran from Val d'Isere to Bonneval-sur-Arc. Both are ski resort towns and have lodging in both places. The total distance is 9.3 miles and it's about a 2500 foot climb to gain the Col de L'Iseran.
Day 3 Val d'Isere to Bonneval-sur-Arc via the Col de L'Iseran. Click on the map to enlarge.
Restaurant at Col de L'Iseran
Day 4 is relatively easy and follows the river valley of the Arc down to Lanslebourg-Mont-Cenis. Although it's 11.5 miles, it's mostly downhill and passes through a number of small villages along the way.
Bonneval-sur-Arc
Day 4 - Bonneval-sur-Arc to Lanslebourg-Mont-Cenis. Click on the map to enlarge.
Lanslebourg-Mont-Cenis, looking toward the Col du Mont Cenis.
Day 5 is the start of a three day trek over the passes that some historians argue Hannibal took. The Waldensians took this route for sure, as it set them up for the battles at Giaglione and Salterbrand. From Lanselbourg-Mont-Cenis, ascend to the Col du Mont Cenis.
View of Lac du Mont Cenis from the Col du Mont Cenis. The path extends off to the right and up towards the Col du Petit Mont Cenis.
Refuge du Petit Mont Cenis. Good meals and wine await the hiker.
This is a seven mile day that end up at the Refuge du Petit Mont Cenis. Due to the terrain, one really can't go farther in order to space out the distances between refuges. Best to enjoy it!
Day 5 - Lanslebourg-Mont-Cenis to Refuge du Petit Mont Cenis. Click on the map to enlarge.
Day 6 goes from the Refuge du Petit Mont Cenis, up to the Col du Petit Mont Cenis. Rather than descend steeply into the Ambin valley, the route goes up the tributary of the Savine, through high alpine territory, past Lac du Savine and then to the spectacular Col du Clapier. This marks the border between France and Italy. During the real Glorious Return, an advance guard went down the valley to Giaglione, where they encountered French dragoons. This is where the Italian path of the Glorious Return trail picks up. After a short detour around a rock buttress, the path detours to the Rifugio de Vaccarone. It's tough to tell from the website, but it's best to contact them well in advance to make sure that someone is there to help with dinner etc.
Day 6: from the Refuge du Petit Mont Cenis, through the Col du Petit Mont Cenis, up the Savine River, and through the Col du Clapier to the Rifugio Vaccarone. Click on the map to enlarge.
Lac du Savine, looking up toward the Col du Clapier.
Rifugio Vaccarone.
It's 7.7 miles from the Refuge du Petit Mont Cenis to Rifugio Vaccarone. Alternatively, one can continue on over the Cima Quattro Denti (peak of the four teeth) to the Rifugio Levi Molinari, which is better appointed, but is another 4 miles of hiking.
The last day, from Rifugio Vaccarone is 8.7 miles. The trail contours along the valley that leads to Giaglione, and then ascends the Cima Quattro Denti. This is an interesting peak that has a series of limestone "teeth" that stick out of the ground. Descending from Cima Quattro Denti, there is an aquaduct that brings water from the other side of the ridge in a tunnel. The trail then descends to the famous crossing of the Dura at Salbertrand.
Link to information on the area surrounding Cima Quattro Denti here.
Rock formations at Cima Quattro Denti.
Opening of an aquaduct tunnel bringing water from across the mountain.
Day 7 - Rifugio Vaccarone to Salbertrand. Click on the map to enlarge.
Salbertrand.
Salbertrand has a main train station that has connections to Torino or back to Geneva.
Variations on the above. One can practically 'dial-in' any of the above sections by choosing transportation to various towns. As I mentioned, Megeve can be reached by taxi from the train station at Sallanches. Les Chapieux is a bit trickier, but can be reached by train to Bourg St. Maurice and then by van or taxi. Val d'Isere can be reached by train to Bourg St. Maurice and then by bus or van for hire.
Lanselbourg-Mont-Cenis can be reached by train to Modane, and then by bus. I think a bus runs up to Bonneval-sur-Arc, so even this is accessible. The longest sections inaccessible by car are the Megeve to Les Chapieux stretch and the Lanslebourg-Mont-Cenis to Salbertrand stretch, although there are some bail-out options.
Here is a table of mileages - note that the Megeve to Col de Very actually starts at the top of the telepherique from Megeve.
| Megeve to Col de Very | 4.7 |
| Col de Very to Refuge de la Roselette | 4.9 |
| Refuge de la Roselette to Col de la Fenetre | 2.1 |
| Col de la Fenetre to Col de la Croix du Bonhomme | 4.8 |
| Col de la Crox du Bonhomme to Les Chapieux | 3.2 |
| Val d'Isere to Col de L'Iseran | 4.8 |
| Col de L'Iseran to Bonneval-sur-Arc | 4.5 |
| Bonneval-sur-Arc to Lanslebourg-Mont-Cenis | 11.5 |
| Lanselbourg-Mont Cenis to Col du Mont Cenis | 2.9 |
| Col du Mont Cenis to Refuge du Petit Mont Cenis | 4.1 |
| Refuge du Petit Mont Cenis to Col du Petit Cenis | 1.2 |
| Col du Petit Mont Cenis to Col du Clapier | 4.5 |
| Col du Clapier to Refugio Vaccarone | 2 |
| Refugio Vaccarone to Cima Quattro Denti | 2.7 |
| Quattro Denti to Salbertrand | 6 |
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